In fourteen hundred and ninety-two, Columbus sailed... you know how it goes. But did you know that, that same fateful year, the Spanish monarchs were busy kicking out locals on their home turf? After about 700 years of Muslim rule in Spain, in January 1492 Queen Isabella rode in on her horse to finally claim the Alhambra, the last Muslim stronghold in Spain. Though the Alhambra hasn't been in Muslim hands for more than half a millennium, the modifications made since Christian occupation, like the crosses topping some of the buildings or the church which stands where once there was a mosque, do little to hide the cultural origins of the Alhambra, whose name comes from Arabic, meaning The Red, after the materials from which it was made. The traces of Spain's Muslim rule extend well beyond the walls of the Alhambra and are deeply ingrained in the local culture.
The Moors crossed the Strait of Gibraltor and began their conquest of Europe in 711 AD. Until 1492, they ruled most of modern-day Spain and Portugal. During this time, the Moors brought things to Europe like Arabic numerals (the number system which replaced Roman numerals and that we use to this day), public libraries, street lighting, and the orange (and lemon, fig, pomegranate, sugar cane, and loads of other crops). They founded universities across Spain and opened up public education at a time when most of Europe was still illiterate. Their influence is still felt in many every day words which they brought into European lexicons via Spanish, including algebra, decipher, chemistry, orange, and even (ironically, given the taboo on its consumption in modern-day North Africa) alcohol.
Construction of the Alhambra began in 1238 under Muhammad I Al-Ahmar, the founder of the Nasrid Dynasty, and it was built up over the next couple of centuries. Muhammad XII, a. k. a. Boabdil, the last Nasrid sultan, lost the Alhambra to the Catholic monarchs King Ferdinand II of Aragon and Queen Isabella of Castile, culminating centuries of reconquest efforts which originated from the small region of northern Spain which had never fallen under Muslim rule.
After its conquest, the Alhambra was occupied by Spanish royalty. King Charles V even had an extra palace built since the three Nasrid palaces just weren't enough. (The European Rennaissance style completely clashes with everything else on site.) Over the years, the Alhambra has served as a source of artistic inspiration. Washington Irving spent time living in the Alhambra to write his Tales of the Alhambra, which massively popularized it as a tourist destination in the 1800s. (Irving is still honored at the Alhambra with plaques in Spanish noting where he stayed.) Later, M. C. Escher also created art work inspired by his visit. In 1870, the Alhambra was declared a Spanish national monument, and in 1984, the Alhambra and its neighboring Generalife were recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Today, the Alhambra is a must-see destination in southern Spain. Located in the city of Granada in Andalucia, it can be easily accessed by bus from Malaga, where several low-cost airlines fly. Granada itself is small but charming. We kicked off our visit with a stop at Las Salinas, a cozy Spanish restaurant on the Calle Elvira with simple but delicious menu.
The old town has plenty of winding, hilly roads, scenic views, colorful store fronts, and charming cafes to keep a tourist busy (and her wallet empty) for an evening.
We could hardly complain the next morning to wake up to this view just outside our bedroom door:
Sadly, blue skies weren't to be. After lunching through a brief window of sunny weather, we hiked the hillside up to the top of my travel bucket list, the Alhambra. Inside, it was quickly clear the architects had thought of every last detail, even what lay underfoot.
We began our visit in the Generalife, an area somewhat separated from the rest of the Alhambra, designed as a place to which the sultans could retreat to relax. With its multitude of garden beds, fountains, orange trees, ornate alcoves, and fantastic views over the city and countryside, all that was missing was a fresh coat of paint, some blue skies, a few less noisy French teenagers, and a sultan lounging in a shaded corner.
Our next step, after hiding on a garden bench for long enough to lose the herd of French high schoolers, was the bath house, or hammam. The interior had been somewhat stripped down since its days as a hammam. If I remember correctly, it most recently served as a hang out for locals to listen to guitar music. However, the basic structure was still preserved, and I especially appreciated the skylights.
Our next stop was the Alcazaba, a military fort and the oldest part of the Alhambra.
We couldn't quite figure out the purpose of the maze-like structures throughout the Alcazaba, and we were running out of time before our 4:30pm entrance to the Nasrid Palaces. Still, I squeezed in a shot of this gorgeous floral layout which was characteristic of the Alhambra landscaping.
And finally, we made it to the pinnacle of any Alhambra visit, the Nasrid Palaces.
The Nasrid Palaces are a complex of three palaces: the Mexuar Palace, built from 1314-1391; the Comares Palace, built from 1333-1391; and the Palace of the Lions, built from 1362-1391. During our tour, it wasn't terribly obvious where one palace ended and the next began. The palaces are all covered in extraordinarily intricate and diverse patterns in plaster, wood, and tile on nearly every inch of wall, ceiling, and even (to a lesser extent) the floors. One of the most well-known spots within the palaces is a courtyard named, for its central lion fountain, the Palace of the Lions.
The palaces were once brightly painted, and I wish even one room could be restored so that we might get to admire the palaces in their former splendor. Only traces of blue paint can still be seen in some of the crevices between the patterns, most especially in places where visitors can't easily reach. Not only did paint brighten the palace, but stained glass windows once adorned much of the grounds. Thanks to a massive explosion of a nearby gunpowder workshop in the 1590, only a single piece of original stained glass remains, hardly visible in a roped off alcove, but a glimpse of its corner of it gives an idea how light passing through such glass could have danced along the patterned walls to create a display fit for a king-- or a sultan.
Strolling through the palace grounds or looking down over the surrounding lands, it's easy to imagine how heartbreaking it must have been for the last sultan to surrender the Alhambra, but I, and countless tourists, have greatly appreciated that it passed hands without a fight.
We also spent a couple of evenings exploring the old historic center of Granada. It was somewhat surreal to walk down streets and through monuments, to peer into entryways of homes, and to find so much North African architectural elements and decor in a solidly European city. But what a fantastic experience to get to peer into this living testament to Spain's storied past.
